Tuesday, September 17, 2013

66. Meet Seni

Seni in his Penn State hat

Name:  Arsenio Julio Sardinha
Nickname(s):  Seni, Archie
Age:  15-17 years old (he maintains that he was born in 1996, which would make him 17 years old.  But he’s awfully tiny.  He claims that his short stature comes from carrying too much water on his head.)
Likes:  Reading, practicing English, laughing, telling stories, jabbering
Dislikes:  Adults (most of them), people who drink
Catch phrase:  “Sabes o que?...”  “You know what?...” followed by a long and detailed explanation

The self-described “bouncing ball” of Zobue-Vila, Seni is the youngest son of a man who never wanted children.  He has no idea who his mother is, where she lives, or if she’s even still alive.  He spent the first few years of his life being passed from relative to relative, moved constantly and shipped between houses and family members.  Then, about six years ago, his father arranged a place for him in Zobue, where he still resides today.

Though Seni is technically living with his aunt (Tia Anabella), he doesn’t always feel welcome in her home.   It’s for this reason that he spends a lot of time playing in our yard, sitting on our porch, or wandering around the neighborhood.  

Of all of the kids in the neighborhood, Seni is by far our favorite child.  He’s the funniest, the most well-spoken, and the most interesting child.  He’s the only one who uses our house as a lending library (though everyone else knows that we have books available), and the only one who actually expresses a real interest in practicing his English.  

There’s so much about Seni that makes him special.  For one, he’s truly clever.  He makes jokes in Nyungue, in Portuguese, and in English, and they’re always very funny.  Here’s him teasing Dan after learning his adjectives in English:

“Dann-ee, you are fat.  Yesterday, you are fat.  Today, you are fatter.  Tomorrow, you are fattest.”

He draws big, detailed pictures for us that we stick to the wall (he has a section reserved just for him), and sometimes he asks for leftover English tests that he can take for practice.  In March and April of this year, he organized his own informal school in our yard, where he taught classes for the smallest kids in the neighborhood.  

He has his flaws, of course.  He’s prone to extreme moodiness, and periods of silence.  Sometimes he won’t come over for weeks on end, or he’ll simply sit on our porch without talking.  We’ve learned that these mood swings come from external sources (his home life), and are nearly impossible to reverse.  Instead, we just fix him a cup of tea and, together, wait it out.  

His favorite book is “Não Faz Mal Estar Triste,” or It’s Okay to be Sad.

He’s a complex little individual, and one who I believe is truly and honestly, perfectly good.

He was near tears the other day, as Dan and I discussed our plans for going home to the States.

“Why do you only come for two years?”  He asked.  He looked down at the ground.  “I mean, it’s just enough time for all of us to get close to you, and then you go away.  It’s like you’re always going away.  All of you.”

If I could take anybody home with me to the United States, I would take him.  But what place is there for him at home?  

Of all the kids-- of all the people-- that I’ve met in Mozambique, my feelings towards him are the closest to love.  

Seni and his new-born second cousin, Ephraim

Monday, September 16, 2013

67. The Xi-Xi Bucket

Also known as the "Pequena Casa de Banho," or the Little Bathroom

This is our xi-xi (shee-shee) bucket.  Basically, it's a chamberpot.  

Between the hours of 8PM and 6AM, when the front door to our house is locked, we opt to use this "indoor toilet" rather than to make our way to the latrine at night.  It's easier, for one thing.  It's also a lot safer than walking around in the dark.  

Some guests are surprised to find that we pee in a bucket.  Other Peace Corps volunteers aren't, though.  In fact, they usually ask where it is before going to bed.

"You do have a xi-xi bucket, don't you?" They ask.  

"Of course we do!"  We respond.  "We're civilized, aren't we?  We aren't animals!"

So the pee bucket gets used every night, by all guests in the house, and then emptied every morning.  It's a good system, and we like it.  Simply put, it's nice to have a toilet in the house.  

Sunday, September 15, 2013

68. Sweep the Dirt

All of the houses in Zobue are surrounded by dirt yards.  You would think that so much dirt and sand would be unattractive, but, actually, the overall effect is nice.  People take great care to maintain a clean homestead area, and they keep their yards quite tidy.  

Yards are generally swept in the early morning by the women of the house.  It's a dusty process, but a matter of pride.  If you ever saw the broad, sweeping lines of a newly-swept dirt lawn, you would understand. 

I didn't get it either when I first arrived.  

Why would you sweep dirt?
I guess it does look cleaner...

After nearly two years of living here, I can now state with pride that I really do understand the process.  Sweeping gets rid of the leaves, the garbage, and the footprints across the lawn.  It creates a smooth, even surface above which a pretty house can stand out.  It's clean slate for a new day.  A playing field.  An safe and snake-free zone for babies and crianças.

In fact, I'll give my honest opinion:  A swept yard can be beautiful.  I think that there's almost nothing prettier than a tidy, fresh-swept patch of sandy dirt.  

A sunny, well-swept yard.  Isn't it beautiful!?

Saturday, September 14, 2013

69. Florinda, the Most Beloved Baby in the World

In April of this year, Tia Anabella's oldest daughter died of malaria.  She was 24 years old, and four months pregnant with her second child.  

It was a hard time for the neighborhood.  Dan and I hadn't known her well, since she had been married and living in the city for the duration of our service, but she was beloved by her neighbors and by her younger siblings.  Gilda and Alzira cried for days.  Tia Anabella was hysterical.

Hundreds of people turned up for the funeral, and bore the body through the town and to the countryside graveyard.  School attendance was low that day, and the bairro was in tears.  She had been very popular and very young, so her death was a hard blow to everyone.  

The daughter's husband, a young man of similar age, was heartbroken.  He'd lost his wife and unborn baby, and was now a single father.  His infant daughter, six-month old Florinda, was left without a mother.

The husband stayed to make arrangements for the funeral, but eventually returned to his home in the city.  When he went, he left his baby girl behind.  He and Tia Anabella had mutually decided that it was best for Florinda to remain in Zobue, to be raised by her maternal grandmother.  

That was five months ago and, of course, Florinda is still here.  We've enjoyed watching her grow, and the entire neighborhood has been reaching out to help.  I've never seen such an outpouring of compassion as I have seen bestowed upon this little girl.  Somebody is always picking her up and kissing her and showing her love.  Her aunts (Gilda and Alzira) carry her everywhere and defend her with vigor.  Even Seni and her uncles scoop her up to play with her, which is rare for men in Mozambique.

Surrounded by love and constant attention, Florinda has become a cheerful, oblivious, and very happy baby.

Seni and Florinda playing on the porch
Gilda and Florinda
Alzira and Florinda
Amilcar and Florinda (in matching hats!)

The family's kindness towards Florinda, especially the compassion shown by the other little girls, has been life-affirming.  She is the most beloved baby in the entire world.  

I think that her mother would have been happy to know.

Friday, September 13, 2013

70. Tales of Superstition

There is an undercurrent of mysticism in everyday African life, and an abiding acceptance of witchcraft and magic.  It's not a system of belief, or a church, or religion.  It's an understanding, and a way of life.  Magic just is, and witchcraft exists.  It's an inextricable element of life in the village.

The people of Zobue don't expect me to believe it.  As an A'zungu, I'm exempt.  This isn't my culture, and they understand that.  And I think that most of them know, to some extent, that it is their belief in the magic that lends it such power.  But how can they just abandon their culture?  They can't, and therefore, the magic prevails.

In Africa, most magical stories feature witch doctors and their familiars.  These three stories are no exception, although they follow the pattern in differing ways.  Two of the following stories are mine.  One of them is borrowed.  All three are disconcerting, but again, in different ways.


 The Black Cat Story

It was after midnight, and I had just finished writing in my diary.  Dan was asleep next to me, and we were both safely tucked within the confines of our mosquito net.  I had just laid back on my pillow and was starting to close my eyes.  Then I heard the faintest whisper of a noise.

At first, I couldn't make it out.  I lay very still and listened.  In the midnight silence, the sound clarified.  Nothing.... nothing.... nothing.... there.  It was a gentle scratching at the foot of the bed.  

I sat bolt upright.  

A long rectangle of light illuminated the room, from a light that I'd left on in  one of the back bedrooms.  As I watched, the room was still.  Nothing moved.  Nothing scratched.  I sat upright, waiting.  

Then, there was a sudden rush of motion through the rectangle of light.  Suddenly, I saw a black cat standing on the table.  His form was clearly etched against the wall.  I caught his eye.  He arched his back and showed his teeth, twitching his tail once, then twice.  He jumped away from the stove and landed silently, disappearing into the darkened central room.   

Without taking my eyes off of the electric stove where the cat had just been, I slid a hand backwards to try and wake Dan.  

"Dan," I said.  "Dan.  Wake up.  There's a cat in the house."  To his credit, Dan sat up and was lucid immediately.  Silently, we both rolled out of bed.  

"How did it get in?"  He asked.  

"I don't know," I said.  

I looked around corners and doors, while Dan started pulling out the furniture.  He searched under the bed in the back room, and behind the couch in the living room.  He even looked under our own bed, in case the cat had doubled back to hide.  Nothing.  

Fifteen minutes later, we had every light in the house on and burning.  We checked behind the boxes in the spare room and behind the pots and pans.  We looked underneath the table and on the chairs and in the folds of the clothes in Dan's closet.  Nothing, still nothing.  There wasn't any cat.  

There simply wasn't any cat.  He had disappeared. 

You'd think that this story would have a satisfying ending, but, like many real-life mysteries, it just doesn't. Dan, for his part, shrugged his shoulders and crawled back into bed.  He doubts there ever was a cat.  I, on the other hand, have never been more certain.

When I mentioned the story to Seni, he didn't even blink.  

"Hmm," he said.  "And did it disappear?"

I admitted that it had.

"Of course," he said.  "It was a witch.  And she was spying in your house."

He didn't seem the slightest bit ruffled.  I still was, of course.  I didn't like that there had been a mystery cat in my house in the middle of the night, and that nobody had been able to find him since.  But apparently, things like this happen in Zobue all the time.


The Owl on the Rooftop

Mozambicans don't like owls.  There are several plausible reasons for this, but the most likely is the fact that they consider them to be soul-stealing omens of magic and death.

"If an owl sits on your roof and hoots," says Romao, "Then someone in the house will die."

And while I didn't share in that superstition when at first I heard it, I did find it intriguing.  I've always been especially fond of owls and, unlike Mozambicans, I want to see them closer.  On the rare occasion that I do hear them in Zobue, I run to the window to find them.  They always pass by quickly and are gone again in moments.  

On this particular night, I was asleep when the owl woke me up.  The strangled hoo-hoo punched into my dreams and forced me up out of bed.  Sleepily, I ducked out of the mosquito net and peered the the window.  An owl was perched on the crooked electrical pole.

He stared lengthwise across the width of our yard, then hooted softly and spread his wings.  Silently, he alit on the grass roof of a neighboring cottage.  He continued to hoot, softer and softer, standing immobile on the peak of the roof.  To my surprise, he didn't fly.  He simply sat there, calling.  After a few minutes, I moved away and climbed back in bed.

"Strange," I thought.  A distant hoooo was the last noise I heard.

The next day, we awoke to human voices and the muffled blur of howling.  I opened my front door to see that branches and boughs had been laid upon the path.  Our yard and the neighboring quintals were crowded with throngs of grim-faced women.

Romao was standing on my front porch, watching the movement of people.

"What happened?" I asked.  I lowered my voice and glanced at the scene.

"There was a falecimento last night."  He said.  "A death."

"Where?"  I asked.  But I thought that maybe, I already knew.  Romao lifted a finger and pointed.

It was the grass-hutted house on which the owl had sat, hooting.


The Witch in the Countryside Village

Once upon a time, in the tiny village of Tchessa, a witch was stalking the local population.  

Word of her presence was spread slowly, as families started to recognize strange things that were happening.  The milk was going sour faster than usual, they said, and the crops weren't producing.  A snake was spotted lying in the road.  An owl built a nest in a tree above town.  A baby goat went missing when his herder fell asleep.   

But the real indication, and the true sign of trouble, was a problem with the children in the small town of Tchessa.  These children, said their teachers, especially the first, second, and third graders, were unnaturally tired.  "They're too tired for school," said the teachers.  "They can't stay awake!"

According to the villagers, something was very wrong.  

Parents were ordered to send their children to bed early, but that didn't help.  The children still came to school tired, sleepy and unable to focus.  

"Witchcraft," said the town.  "Witchcraft, indeed."

Someone theorized that a witch was taking the children out of their homes, and forcing them to do work at night.  "It stands to reason that they'd be tired, then," said this person.  "They aren't getting a lick of sleep."

So the children were interviewed, one at a time.  One by one, they were asked the following question:

"What happened last night, after you fell asleep?"

And one by one, they were unable to answer.  

"Of course," said the town.  "They've been drugged.  The witch must disguise her identity."

Their questions got rougher and their tactics, intense.  Finally, they found one boy on whom the magic had worn off.  Miraculously, he was able to speak of his ordeal.  

"It was Teacher Sheila," he said.  "From Sunday school.  She has only been posing as a religious woman.  She is the one who has been taking us from our beds.  She has been forcing us to learn how to fly!"

And so an angry mob stormed to the house of the witch-Teacher Sheila, and cast her away from the village.  She was pushed around and cursed, but escaped with her life.  She is now living a life of banishment in her home country of Malawi.

And though it might seem like this story has arrived at a conclusion, there is a complication.  Rumor has it that there were two witches in town all along.  The first witch is gone, say the people of Tchessa, but the children are still tired at school.

Hmm.  Witchcraft and magic, indeed.


On a personal note:
Dan is traveling this week, which means that I'm alone.  In some ways, I like this better-- I feel very independent, and I find much greater peace in writing.  But I do not like the night, and I find that I get anxious about dark windows and corners.  

In this regard, I decided that the Black Cat Story seemed especially appropriate for tonight's daily post.  The time was right for the Tales of Superstition.  Only after writing did I realize that today was Friday the 13th.

Perfect.  Super extra perfect.

After all, we're all a bit superstitious, aren't we?

Thursday, September 12, 2013

71. The Photo

My English class was at a temporary lull, somewhere between singing and starting an in-class assignment.  I was busy correcting an exercise in somebody's notebook and feeling tired and dusty and sticky and hot.  I'd had a lousy couple of days and my inner strength was starting to erode.  

Then, suddenly, I got an unexpected present.

The class president raised his hand as I passed by his desk and pulled something out of his notebook.

"Here, Teacher," he said.  "A gift.  We took this photo for you."

I received the photo and started to smile.  "For me?"  I asked.  

"Yes, Teacher," he said.  "The picture is for you.  It's for you to keep."

I looked it over in earnest, and then tried hard not to laugh.

My students

I only somewhat managed.  

"I love it," I said.  "Thank you."  And I really, really meant it.    

I love so much about this photo.  I love their solemn faces and the way that the class president (upper left) is posing with the Livro da Turma (the official Class Book).  I love that their school uniforms match the colors of the photo border, and I especially love the flowers on the corners.  

It has all the elements of the perfect Mozambican photo, and it's a wonderful lembrança of three of my favorite students.

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

72. Mud Baby

Cradling a mud-baby

Two sisters came to my door, covered in mud and giggling.  Both were carrying bundles of cloth.  One sister nudged the other, and they clamored up the stairs.

I noticed their approach and put down the papers I was grading.  "What's that you have there?" I asked.  "Who's that in that towel?"

The girls giggled and bumped into one another.  Both of them shuffled closer, and one of the girls handed me a tightly-bundled stretch of cloth.  It was surprisingly heavy for its size, and also rather hard.  Inside was a sculpted wad of mud.

"A baby," she said.  

"Ohhhh," I said.  "I see.  Yes, this is a baby."

"Her name is Lucinda," the girl continued.  Then she grabbed the other bundle from her sister, "And this one is Fatima."

"Oh," I said.  I dandled the mud-wads lovingly.  "And are they sisters just like you?"

A silence fell, and the little girl frowned.  She looked at me like I was stupid.  "No," she said.  "They're cousins."

Oh.  

Of course they were. 

Mud Baby Cousin 1
Mud Baby Cousin 2

And off went the girls, to show somebody else.  

I sat there thinking about them long after they'd left.  These little girls never cease to amaze me.  They're so clever and creative.  And they simply don't get bored.  They make do with the smallest things, and they find such joy and happiness.  

And I, in turn, find happiness with them.  

If there's anything that Peace Corps has taught me, it's been to appreciate the little things.  And to embrace a simpler way of life.  

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

73. [Automatic Update]

Watching movies in the yard

Hi!

If you're reading this, that means the electricity has gone out and I chose to use my remaining computer charge to watch a movie with the kids.

Sorry!

It's nothing personal.  I'll be back again tomorrow.

Love, Lisa

Monday, September 9, 2013

74. Bath time

Here are some babies at bath time. 

Boy-Baby
Girl-Baby

Who can be sad in a world filled with little bathing bucket-babies?

Sunday, September 8, 2013

75. Pound it!

So the kids in Zobue really like to touch us.  

It's not that the culture in Mozambique is especially warm and cuddly.  It's not.  But it's a culture that is all about the greeting.  And while grown-ups tend to adhere to a scripted conversation, the kids just go for contact.  Or, you know...some rabid pawing.

I love giving and receiving hugs and handshakes, but these kids are really sticky.  They will pee in a bush, build a mud baby, snack on some sugar cane, lick salt from their palms, and then, at the sight of our presence, will leap and run for handshakes.

From the standpoint of good hygiene, it's not a pretty picture.  That's why we invented boom!

The boom! is a friendly little fist-bump that takes the place of shaking hands.  Whenever we see a kid running at us expectantly, we simply hold out a fist, wait for the approach, and pound it on demand.

"Boom!!!!!" says the child.

"Boom!" we say.  The top of our fingers get sticky, perhaps, but our hands stay clean and tidy. We can go about our day in peace.

The boom has become our trademark greeting.  Kids will queue up (clump up, really, or gather-and-swarm) to pound fists and say hello.  The concept has become a fad.  We greet tens to hundreds of children a day, some of them five or six times in a row.

Boom!

If there's one thing that our neighbors will remember long after we've gone, it's the good old-fashioned fist-bump that we brought with us to Zobue.