Thursday, November 7, 2013

15. National Geographic

During the course of our three-day site visit, Laura said something that really stuck with me.

"My friend said that I was really lucky to be visiting Tete," she said, looking around the fields as we hiked.  "He said that it was the National Geographic of Mozambique."

And, seeing what she was seeing as we walked, I couldn't disagree with her.  Zobue is one of the most beautiful little towns in Mozambique, and in one of the most charismatic landscapes.  But seeing as how Tete Province is often dismissed unceremoniously due to the extreme heat of its provincial capital (a rolling and continuous 120 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer), it was refreshing to hear someone give credit to the other, more beautiful corners of this forgotten province.  

Here is my small tribute to Zobue:  the "National Geographic" of Mozambique.















Zobue at Sunset.  Photo credit:  Christopher Ramm

It's a beautiful town.  We have flowers and vegetation and a large and sprawling landscape.  We have thousands of smiling children and kind, hardworking families.  

Over the past two years of Peace Corps service, we've been proud to call this place our home.

This is our town.  And we have less than two days left.

We're going to go out and enjoy it.

16. The Site Visitor

This week, from Sunday to Wednesday morning, Dan and I hosted Laura, one of the newest Peace Corps Volunteers, on her site visit to Zobue.  The purpose of her visit, as defined by Peace Corps, was to--

1.  Better understand the diversity across the country of Mozambique
2.  Learn about the day-to-day life of an Education Volunteer
3.  Have lots of fun!

It was also a good opportunity to get some travel experience, practice speaking Portuguese, and to have long and candid talks with more experienced volunteers.  

We loved hosting Laura, and we were so happy that she came.  It was fun to show off our site, and to see everything through her eyes.  Suddenly, and more clearly than ever, we could see just how much we have achieved in these past two years-- our relationships with Seni, Romao, Leme, our students, and all of our crianças-- and how much we've had to be thankful for-- the beautiful scenery, the dogs, and the love that our town has for us.  We felt proud of our accomplishments, and also felt a sense of closure.  It was the perfect way to spend our last remaining days at site.

Because time has been moving faster and faster at the end of our two years of service, it seemed like her visit passed very quickly.  It felt like we did a lot- and almost nothing- all at the same time.  The three of us hiked the mountain, toured the town, baked a cake, ate dinner with the missionaries, and visited the Angolano.  We also spent hours and hours just talking about the realities of service and our thoughts on Mozambique.  But we barely visited the school or talked to the other teachers.  Before we knew it, Dan and I were walking to the chapa stop and hugging her goodbye.

"I'm sold," said Laura, looking around.  "I think that I would be happy here.  Zobue is the perfect site."

And she's right-- it is.  Especially for an English teacher like her, with strength and energy and a good sense of humor.

Hiking in the campo (with beautiful Mount Zobue in the background...)
Admiring the view
Banana trees and a partially-obscured Mount Zobue
Looking down over the little villages outside Zobue
Laura on the border between Mozambique and Malawi
Laughing and chatting at the top of the mountain
Just like our first big hike at site (see banner at the top of the page)
The clouds on Mount Zobue
Hanging out with the neighborhood kids
Taking a sunset hike with the dogs and the kids

We don't know who will be replacing us, but we'll find out very soon.  Next week, Dan and I will be at Training to hear the results of the official Site Placements.

We do think that Laura would be a great fit.  In fact, Seni has already requested her, personally.

We'll just have to wait and see.

17. Kids' Gallery

The kids love my camera.  

After every photo that I take, I turn the camera around to show them the picture displayed on the small screen.  The kids cheer and jab at the photo to identify themselves.   

"Ona," they say.  "Ine!"  Look!  Me!  

"Ona, Celso!!  Ona, Antoninho!"

They also love to use my camera.  They'll cling onto me and roll on the floor and grovel until I have no choice but to let them try and take a picture.  

"Put it around your neck," I caution.  "No, around your neck.  Like this.  Now, be careful.  I'm taking this camera back home with me, too.  Walk!  WALK!  Don't run!"

And off they go, to take a picture.   It usually turns out something like this:

Que photogenic!

None of the pictures are very good, but I save them, anyway.  The kids have a unique way of capturing candid and un-posed moments, and their photos feel very sweet and legitimate.  It's a way for me to see the town of Zobue from their point of view.

"Ervinha and Florinda" by Seni (16 years old)
"Eight feet" by Ranito (12 years old)
"Florinda's Baptism" by Seni (16 years old)
"Joy" by Seni (16 years old)
"Florinda and her Grandmothers" by Seni (16 years old)
"A Boy at Lake Malawi" by Unknown
"Hiking with the Dogs" by Seni (16 years old)
"After Sunset" by Celso (11 years old)
"Boy in Crowd" by Osvaldo  (14 years old)
"Dolicia Smiles" by Alzira (9 years old)
"Hasvilde Strings a Soccer Ball" by Seni (16 years old)
"Lisa and the Girls" by Tabita (7 years old)
"Leguinha and Baby Efraim" by Gilda (5 years old)
"Baby Efraim (Correction)" by Alzira (9 years old) 
"Noemia is Scared," by Shana (8 years old)
"Lisa and Elias" by Ema (10 years old)
"Eyes" by Alzira (9 years old)
"Smile" by Alzira (9 years old)
"Ears" by Unknown
"Ranito in the Front Yard" by Nelson (13 years old)
"Watching a Play at the Praça" by Osvaldo (14 years old)
"New Teeth" by Nelson (13 years old)
"Mana Lisa" by Alzira (9 years old)
Note:  The weight of the camera makes aiming hard, especially for the little girls
"Lisa and Zinia" by Tabita (7 years old)
"Madalitso with his Easter Hat" by Ranito (12 years old)
"Ranito as a Bunny" by Seni (16 years old)
"Lisa on Easter" by Seni (16 years old)
"Easter Balloons" by Nelson (13 years old)
"Lisa's Easter Hat" by Tabita (7 years old)
"Drawing Pictures on the Front Porch" by Shana (8 years old)
"A Family Portrait" by Osvaldo (14 years old)
"Teacher Dan and Teacher Lisa" by Osvaldo (14 years old)

You'll notice that there's no karate in any of these photos.  These pictures show Mozambican children at their very best-- smiling and laughing and naturally joyous.  And that is the way that I'll always remember them.